Milan (AFP) – The third day of Milan Fashion Week, which was mostly previews of women’s clothing for the upcoming spring and summer, was all about transformation.
Sometimes, internal transformation, as in Gucci, or brand transformation, as in Missoni. And sometimes it was about upgrading the style game, like in Sunnei.
Here are some of the highlights from Friday’s shows.
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Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, has built a parallel universe on the runway with a surprising theatrical reveal.
In his Spring-Summer 2022-23 collection dubbed “Twinsburg,” Michel staged side-by-side shows inside the Gucci Hub, each unknown to the other, until he raised a wall, revealing sets of twins in symmetrical form with a synchronized step.
In the final round, 68 sets of twins came together in the middle, held hands and reunited. He was so strong that many in the audience were in tears.
“I was crying too. I don’t really know why,” Michelle said behind the scenes. “I don’t cry a lot but it was probably fitting in the end for me to cry because it was so intense.”
“There are times when I ask myself, Why am I doing this? Someone is talking about nuclear war. Politics is a disaster. ‘The situation on this planet is catastrophic,’” Michele added. “But as human beings, the only weapon we have is to imagine something else and achieve it. ”
Michelle said the show was an exploration of people’s inner self, and the idea that they are harboring an inner twin may hold or motivate them.
His idea of the “other” was shaped by an unusual family arrangement who grew up believing he had two mothers: his mother and a twin sister. Dubbed both “Mama,” they raised their families in adjoining apartments because they couldn’t stand the separation, and only began to understand the difference at the age of seven, when his aunt passed away.
Michel said that presenting his collection in two versions gave more strength to the clothes, each designed to the eclectic standards set by Michel to achieve great international success.
Among them was a suit with trousers that appeared to be tied together by laces revealing the upper thigh, a part of the masculine physique rarely seen in formal attire. Floral-lined jackets and pants were a sexless affair. Gorgeous embroidered silk robe is draped in the back with a back tail.
The idea of the evil twin on the runway is represented by motifs from the ’80s movie Gremlins, where the creatures turn naughty. Featured as quilted accessories, patches and prints, Michelle said the Gremlins are meant to emphasize “the fear of your evil self.”
Zane Michel the word “Fuori!!!” On some clothes in honor of an Italian gay rights organization. Michelle has spoken in the past about Italy’s failure to pass landmark legislation that would criminalize hate crimes against gays, women and the disabled, and noted his concern over expectations that a far-right party could dominate Italy’s parliamentary elections on Sunday.
“The elections clearly show that freedoms are being eroded little by little,” he said.
The designers behind Milan Snee sensation have played with the idea of transformation, using the altered egos of the Gucci twins.
Models in what appeared to be street clothes descended from the stands and walked through a revolving door, through which another model returned with an updated look. Designers Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo seem to be telling a young audience of hoodie-loving fashion designers how to up their game in style.
So the woman in a sweatshirt and jeans turned into a green and blue striped shirt, worn with loose white shorts. A girl in a black shirt and jeans is back in a royal blue long coat with white satin collar and cuffs. The khaki pants and gray shirt disappeared behind the door, and a loose-fitting lemon green shirt with gathered pants popped out, a sort of urban tracksuit.
The family-run fashion house Missoni has taken a new turn with a new creative director, who has scoured the archives for clues on how to make the brand’s luxury knitwear fit for a new generation.
The star-studded front row indicated the target audience: performer Paris Jackson, American actor Madison Bailey, model and social media influencer Maddie White, and Brazilian model Alessandra Ambrosio.
Creative director Filippo Grazioli wore deep V-neck mini skirts over lingerie and sheer, sequined dresses over herringbone culottes.
The looks featured oversized zigzags as well as less-than-archive geometric patterns. The shoes of the season were thick-soled, wrap-around shoes. The look was completed with flat silver jewellery.
Not all of the pieces strictly adhered to the spirit of Missoni knitwear, including sequin-splashed ballet skirts and long, sheer dresses, like the one Jackson wore with her black and white herringbone culottes.
To mark the move, Missoni staff took half the seats in the subterranean Bocconi lobby, while students from Milan’s Business School watched from above through glass windows.
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